Introduction:
It's that time of year again to bring your boat out of storage and hit the local lake. Of course you'll need a trailer hitch to make it happen. Like most people, you probably think of drilling, welding, blue coveralls with Gino embroidered onto the breast pocket, and a big credit card bill. Fortunately for you, times (and hitch technology) have changed! Most vehicles now have pre-drilled and tapped locations for bolting a hitch to the frame. Most hitches do not involve drilling, let alone welding. Typically all that is needed is a socket wrench. This guide is intended to help you select a trailer hitch, purchase it, and save by installing it yourself.

Selecting Your Trailer Hitch:
Trailer hitches come in thousands of flavors and are specifically designed for each vehicle. You'll find that there are several brands to choose from. Contrary to conventional wisdom, quality does vary significantly from brand to brand. Important things to consider are the hitch construction and finish. Today's trailer hitches are robotically welded for consistency, have sealed main bodies to keep water and rust out, and minimize the possibility of trapped water inside the hitch opening. Top hitch manufacturers use powder coat technology instead of conventional paint. Powder coat finishes offer much better durability and are very effective at fighting rust.

Finding a hitch is easy now that trailer hitch retailers have gone online. Most retail establishments, like HitchSource.com, offer trailer hitch selection guides and automated selection tools to help you find the right hitch. Simply enter your vehicle information and you'll be presented with the hitches designed for your vehicle. You'll find that you will typically save around $100 by doing the installation yourself and the hitches are typically delivered within one week of ordering.

Some vehicles have a limited selection of hitches, while others have several hitches to choose from. How do you choose the right one? It depends on what your towing requirements are. Hitches typically fit into one of five categories depending on their weight carrying capacity: Class I, Class II, Class III, Class IV, and Class V.

Class I & II hitches typically come with 1.25" receiver openings. Curt Manufacturing has recently introduced a Class II+ series with a 2" receiver opening in a low profile Class II design. Class III and above offer 2" receiver openings. Most trailer hitch purchasers end up with either Class II or Class III hitches, but heavy duty towers (>10,000lb trailer weights) should go with the Class IV or Class IV models.

We generally recommend going with a 2" receiver when available. Hitches with 2" openings are compatible with the most aftermarket accessories and options. Customers with light towing needs may consider the 1.25" models because they offer a lower profile and aren't as visually intrusive.

Your Trailer Hitch Has Arrived!:
Today's trailer hitches are designed for do-it-yourselfers. They come with all the mounting hardware and a detailed instruction sheet for installing the hitch. Typical installation times range from 15 minutes up to 60 minutes. You'll need a socket wrench or an open end wrench for tightening the bolts. Are you unsure whether you have what it takes or want to see what the installation entails before your purchase? Many hitch retailers publish the installation instructions directly on their websites for you to look at.

What About Trailer Hitch Wiring?
Custom designed hitch wiring is available for many vehicles today. The wiring is designed to plug into your vehicle's electrical system and include dedicated circuitry to protect your vehicle's computer and sensitive electrical components. You can order the wiring at the same time as your hitch. The wiring includes instructions for installation. Most harnesses take just 20 minutes to install and do not require any special tools or skills.